Heavy Duty 200A Automotive Bolt-on Bolt-down Fuse 80V dc For
Electric Forklift Battery Charger Pallet Truck Golf Cart
|For High Performance ANT And High Power Audio Systems. Also Use
Lift Trucks And Other Battery Operated System.|
|Metal Element||Brass/Copper With Gold Plating.|
|Part Number||Ampere (A)|
White ANL 800V 250A Auto Fuse Bolt-on FUSE / Ceramic Fuse 81*22 mm
Use for: Electric forklift /Battery charger /Pallet/ Stacker /Golf
Product Size(LxWxH):81x22x10 mm
Insulating body: Ceramic
Power Rating: 200 amps
Ultimate circuit protection
High conductivity plating
Maximum current transfer
Designed to fit ANL fuse holders
Operating range 35A to 425A, at 80Vd.c. max.
Fast fixing with heavy duty fuse base
Opening Time / Pre-arcing Time: 24 ℃
offering a bolt-on space saving fuse for high current wiring
protection and provides time delay characteristics
|3600 s||-||-||60 s||0.8 s||10 s||0.2 s||2 s|
Recommend ANL Bolt-on Fuse Holder
Other Automotive Limiter / Bolt-on Fuses
How to Test a Fuse
Why Test a Fuse?
Most of us have experienced a blown fuse at one time or another and
simply replaced it. Some fuses, though, aren't cheap and if a
replacement isn't handy it means a trip to the auto parts or home
improvement store. As a professional electrician I have had to test
many fuses over the years; it is a standard part of troubleshooting
techniques rather than simply replacing fuses that I don't know for
sure are blown.
Better to test a fuse first to see if it is actually blown before
making a special trip to purchase and install a new one. Testing a
fuse to see if it is actually blown is a very simple task,
requiring a minimum of inexpensive tools, and can save both money
A fuse is basically a small piece of wire inside a special housing
that is designed to burn in half when an electrical overload is
present. All we have to do is determine if that wire is still
intact. Some fuses have a small window where the wire can be seen
but the view is generally poor, the wire is often very small and
mistakes can be made. A 30 second test is foolproof and will tell
the tale with no possibility of error.
At it simplest, a fuse tester is nothing more that a a device to
check for continuity. It may be in the form of a multimeter, a
continuity tester, or a dedicated fuse tester.
In all cases, though, the idea is to send a small current through
the fuse; if it passes through the fuse the fuse is good. If it
does not the fuse is blown and needs replacement. This means that a
battery is necessary to provide that small current and every fuse
tester will have a battery in it.
If a tester shows that a fuse is blown, the next step is to check
the tester. This is accomplished by touching the test leads
together or, in the case of testers without leads, to put a piece
of metal (wire, coin, dinner spoon, anything metal) across the
probes. If it does not indicate "good" the battery probably needs
Using a Continuity tester
Continuity testers will have two test leads and a small light that
will light up if the leads are touched together. To test a fuse
simply touch one lead to each of the electrical contacts on the
fuse; if the light bulb lights up the fuse is good.
Testing a Fuse with a Multimeter
A multimeter again has two leads just like a continuity tester.
However, there are many settings on a multimeter to measure
amperage, voltage and resistance in several different ranges. Some
multimeters are autoranging (no need to choose a range), some are
digital and some are analog meters with a needle to indicate the
reading. With all multimeters the first step is to set it to
measure resistance, or Ω. If different ranges are available, choose
the lowest range (K means thousand on the dial, so 2K equals 2000)
- usually around 200. Like a continuity tester, touch one probe to
each contact on a fuse and observe the reading. A very low reading
of 1 ohm or less means the fuse is good; if it is blown the reading
will be infinite, or the maximum the meter will display. An
intermediate reading of several ohms probably means you aren't
making good contact; wriggle the probes on the fuse contacts or
clean them and try again.
Dedicated Fuse Testers
In general, these testers will have a light that lights up if the
fuse is good. There will always be some method to touch a probe of
some kind to each contact on the fuse. Make sure to read and follow
the manufacturers instructions with dedicated testers as different
fuse testers may operate differently.
A small inexpensive multimeter
A voltage/continuity meter, much better quality
Multimeter. Primarily designed for measuring amperage, but will
also check resistance (continuity) and voltage.
A dedicated fuse tester. The two prongs on the top are the "probes"
that are to be touched to the contacts. Obviously this tester
cannot test large fuses.
Checking ATC Automotive fuses
The fusible link is generally visible inside the fuse and it is
sometimes easy to see if the fuse is blown. As a double check,
though, it never hurts to actually check with a meter to see if it
is actually good or not - a fuse that appeared to be good recently
cost me several hours trying to diagnose a problem when all that
was wrong was a blown fuse.
The two blades that were inserted into the fuse box are the
contacts. Touch a probe to each of these contacts to verify if the
fuse is good or blown.
Mini blade fuses use the same procedure; they are simply smaller
while retaining the same basic construction.
Testing an automotive ATC blade fuse. The light in the center of
the tester is lit, indicating a good fuse.